Black American Woman Epic Travel to Tibet Autonomous Region known as : "THE ROOF OF THE WORLD"
I greet you with the traditional Tibetan greeting of "TASHI DELEK", which conveys wishes of blessings, auspiciousness prosperity, luck and good health.
*Please note that my 10 days of traveling across the Tibetan Himalayas covered many regions starting from Lasha to exploring Tsetang, Samye, Gyantse, Shigatse, Dhamshung, Namtso Lake. It is too much to include all of my experiences in this blog, however, I mapped out a few interesting site visits perhaps you can vicariously enjoy !
I traveled to Lasha, the capital city of Tibet in the fall of 2019 on an 11 day journey to witness first hand the autonomous Himalayan country... birthplace of the current 14th Dali Lama:Tenin Gyatso (chosen at age two (2) to become the spiritual leader of the Tibetan Dynasty). Due to death threats on his life in 1959 from the Chinese government led by communist leader Mao Zedong...he fled to northern India.
After seeing the movie "Seven Years In Tibet" (1997) starring American Actor Brad Pitt who portrayed the real life story of Heinrich Harrer (1912-2006), an Austrian mountain climber,
I was always curious about this mystical part of the world Tibet... a place where time has stood still for centuries, nestled in the Himalayan. A part of the world described as rich in culture, pure untouched landscapes, Buddhism spiritual, snowy majestic mountains peaks, deep valleys, green grasslands,and holy lakes. Tibet borders three countries: Bhutan, India, and Nepal countries.
My initial impression of this mystical place began with the two (2) hours flight from Chendu, China (Home to Giant Pandas) to Lasha, Tibet . A view from the airplane window flying over high mountains peaks spread across deep valleys below. Although I was a little nervy about flying in a small airplane, the flight and landing was smooth.
Excitement after many years of trying to visit "my bucket list country Tibet" and travel restriction imposed off and on by the Chinese government to all foreigners, I felt it was the right time, so with the assistance of Journeys International, a local travel company, I wasted no time to book my trip, especially knowing that China may posed restrictions/lock-downs that will deny foreigners entry.
I booked immediately and traveled solo from Detroit, to Shanghai, to Chengdu, China, my final destination. I joined four other US travelers the next morning at breakfast. I flew solo to Lasha, Tibet where I was met at Gonggar airport by our Tibetan tour guide: Palmo (a beautiful Tibetan lady). She greeted me with the traditional Tibetan greetings: Tashi Delek then placed a white, loosely woven silk cloth called the Khatag around my neck to show her respect and hospitality.
HOUSE OF SHAMBHALA HOTEL: Believe to be a restored school while others say restored home of a high ranking Lama,,.who knows. The hotel is located in the heart of Lhasa old town on Beijing Road tucked in a quiet alleyway within two-minute walking distance to the bustling Bharkor street shops. The hotel is designed in traditional Tibetan architecture and furniture. There are only nine rooms that accommodates small tourist groups. The rooftop offered a nice view of the Potola Palace and surrounding mountains. my room was clean and comfortable with a small couch, night table and floor incense burner. The ceiling lanterns used for lightening was very dim, beads hanging from the ceiling, hardwood floors, bright orange red walls. I especially enjoyed the bed comforter with sowed semi-precious stones, turquoise, sea corals, and Dzi eye stones amulets believed to ward off "evil spirits." (heavy enough to keep me warm during the cold nights)!
The bathroom shower areas resembled a prehistoric cave with no hot water!,..period! Flat screen TV with free WiFi and frequent change of room routers for internet. Most TV channels were censored and dominated by China and prohibits western style movies and TV shows. On rare access, I was able to pick up some English outside news.
The staff was very friendly and helpful, spoke good English, multi-tasked between front-desk clerking to staffing the hotel restaurant. Buffet breakfast every morning was the same and mostly consisted of whole grain cereal,barley, toast with jam, fresh fruit, coffee, and cook to order egg omelet,
Small courtyard with a Buddha shrine for worshipers who walk in off the street.
No porters, so we had to have to carry all our heavy luggage bags up two flights of steep steps to rooms. Whew! (altitude). *Remember we are at 12,000 feet ASL!
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TREASURES OF TIBET TIMELINE:
LASHA, TIBET:
Lasha, Tibet: The capital city, 12,000 feet above seal level, ancient, historical , the center of Tibetan Buddhism for over thousands of years. Lots of local monasteries, palaces and Tibetans people strolling or shopping in old town in traditional dress. We were meet with friendly smiles. Highlights: we arrived during the time of the year to witness the Tibetan people celebrate the historical 11th century long (1). The Shoton Festival, translated meaning "Yogurt Banquet Festival" held one week from August 19th to August 25th at the Norblingka "Jewel Park" Palace in Lasha, Tibet. Hundreds of Tibetan people travel to Lasha city from Himalayan regions, villages, monasteries, to celebrate the festivities. The opening ceremony main attraction was was the unveiling of the 500 square meter cloth embroidered Thangka portrait of the Buddha at the Drepung Monastery, one of the great three (3) Buddhist Monasteries founded in 1416 by Jamyang Choge Tshi Palden. It was held atop a mountain and In order to see the actual close up Thangka Buddha, one would have to arrive around 4am-5am among the crowds of people. A small number of Tibetan Monks still live and study at the Dreprung Monastery.
My Celebrity Status"Fifteen Minutes of Fame": began on the streets of Lasha during the Shoton Festival celebrations with curios onlookers followed by warm smiles before they approached me..Tibetan individuals would speak to Palmo and signal for a photos with me.The curious stares and photo opps continued towards me across the Tibetan regions (many pictures with families, children, Nomads,etc). Perhaps, it was unusual to see a Black American woman traveling in Tibet...Not sure, however, I saw many Tibetans people darker than me. They were very friendly, warn and respectful towards me.
(2). POTALA PALACE: UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE (since 1994) -A magnificent ,thousands year old landmark that has stood the test of time, towering imposingly above the old town Barkhor street.. It is situated 12,300 feet above sea level (ASL) on the precipitous/steep Mar-Po-Ri (red mountain) .The palace is divided into Red (administrative) and White (residential) sectors. It served as a religious and administrative complex. It is ornately spectacular in Tibetan architecture style with (according to the Guinness Book of World Records), The base structure itself is imposing as the largest palace in the world with over 1.0000 rooms. It was once the winter palace of the current Dalai lamas from 1649 to 1959 who spent his winter's there when he was the young leader of Tibet. It is now a museum with limited tourism. INSIDE THE POTALA PALACE: is splendid artwork, treasures of Tibet that tell stories both true and mystical of former Buddha masters, Buddha Tangkas made of silk/embroidered cloth, paper, embroidery, Supas of past Dalai Lamas, school to teach Buddhism, precious jewel, earth stones status, tombs, holy scriptures, colorful Mandelas, hundreds of murals that depict Buddhism history, Dalai Lamas thrones, and more. My Tibetan tour guide, Palmo wasn't kidding when she said "be ready for lots of steps and drink lots of water."
My "Ain't No Mountain High Enough" climb started from the south gate to the top of the palace, totaling over 500 steps , 12, 300 feet (ASL). It was a slow and grueling upward climb, a tough challenge on the body, specifically my legs and lungs as we gasp for breath, but frequent short rest stops at every level and sips of water helped us to regain the tenacity and continue towards the top. Despite the warning from the guide about altitude sickness, I experience none! My advice is to climb slowly, methodically, being mindful of each footstep placement due to the uneven cobbler steps. Some people called them "killer steps" Which lead me to think about a song by Kelly Clarkson's" Whatever Doesn't Kill You, Makes You Stronger:"
It was an effort for everyone including Tibetans pilgrimages devotees who traveled far from their villages across the Himalayan carrying various types of offerings, finger kneading prayer beads around their necks to pay homage to the symbolic tradition that the palace stands for. Within an hour or more we finally reached the top ,sat momentarily and entered through curtains made of black yak fur that served as door opening only to find more steps ! WHEW! our ticket only allowed a short walk through only to start the incline down...just as grueling. Tourism is only limited to a few rooms. I survived to tell!
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Backside of the Potala Palace Beside Dragron Park and a lake, there is the Temple of One Thousand Buddhas. Around this area are large crowds of Tibetan pilgrimages who come to pay their respect to Buddha by circumambulations/prostrating clockwise around the temples/monasteries reciting the "Bodhichitta Mantra",in this areas the air is filled with the strong aroma/fragrance of Juniper incense burring in giant metal smoke stack.. The House of Butter Lamp Offering" house is here too and you can see people inside the glass windows repeatedly lighting lamps around the clock. Butter lamps symbolizes the offering of light to dispel darkness of the mind and wisdom)of the awaken mind.
Note: We were informed that the Chinese government is planning eventually to close the Potala Palace to tourists and make it a 3 D show!
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Tibetan Indigenous People: are resilient, friendly, and hospitable. They are separated into three (3) east Asian groups": Urban residents, Nomads, and village peasants. They are also separated into different ethnicity groups. Dress, language and living styles differ too. However, it was common to see majority of Tibetans people , men and women wear large pieces of bright colorful ornamental jewelry made from gold, copper, silver, turquoise , agate and coral. They have a distinct style of clothing influenced by the environment and religious. Most men wear large robes that extend all the way to the knees, herdsmen wear fur-lined robes due to the cold weather and may double it as a quilt at night, women wear "Pagdens" or colorful stripped aprons. This is customary in all regions. The apron represents a married woman! Men and women wear ornamental earrings, rings, long plaited/braided hair. The fashionable trend now with Tibetan women and girls is to braid their hair with color yarn strips intertwined into braids adorned with ornaments.. I noticed this style throughout villages, the city and old towns.
The men women and children wear hats made of colorful material, ribbons, golden flower threads, leather, felt linings, yak or fox fur., wool felt, etc. due to cold weather, wind storms, and the bright sun .Natural dyes from the earth are used to make colors. The finest wool clothing are worn by wealthy families Tibetans people would describe their clothing as simple, but they are beautifully hand crafted! Tibetan love colors which they blend well in their natural attire, temples monasteries, hotels, homes and jewelry adornment. Footwear is colorful, tall or short boots, with embroidered geometric patterns. There is no difference in shoes and no right or left sizes.
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Social Ladder: can extend from high llamas, heredity aristocracy, Monasteries, Senior or local government officials,, smalll number of noble families all the way down to Nomads, herdsman, serfs, craftsmen, house slaves , Status also depends on the size of land that one possessed,
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EDUCATION: Education in Tibet used to be monopolized by monasteries where only the llamas learn to read and write and recite Buddha scriptures. According to statistical data from the Department of Education In the Tibet Autonomous Region,the literacy rate was a staggering 95% in 1959 in Tibet, However, racial changes in Tibetan education and culture have taken place and literacy rates are reduced to 45%..Despite the educational development, China aggressively enforces the Mandarin Chinese language and repress Tibetan languages in schools and businesses. Monks are under pressure stop teaching communities language classes or they will be thrown in jail.. Tibetan people feel this is another threat and control to their very way of life.
Education in Tibet now is one of the most focal points of disagreement. China subsidies compulsory education in in primary and secondary schools for Tibetan children ages 8-9 years old. (Traditionally Tibetan children don't attend school until the age of 9).
I witness first hand children in the plateau villages and towns were forced to go to a Chinese "private school" where they have to live from Monday-Friday then release home on the weekend. They are forced to learn the Chinese Mandarin language, abandon their religion Buddhism, their clothing, ...a way to indoctrinate and influence the the youths
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Medical Care. 80% or less is funded by the Chinese government... some enrolled in hospital care, practice traditional Tibetan medicine, seek help from social donations network, Tibetans feel that China's medical infrastructure is poor and healthcare is hard to get especially in rural areas outside the city, Lhasa.. some people have to sell their houses to pay for healthcare services despite China' s boast of many hospitals, health clinics, maternal and childcare. However, compared with before, some people believe that healthcare have improved.
Travelers Beware: Tibet poses a health risk to travelers due to it's high altitude, however with preparation, acclimation knowledge, travel insurance, most are OK.
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Food/Cruisine/Drinks: Tibetans consume essential foods and liquids that warm and energize theri bodies in order to sustain harsh cold climates and live in high altitudes..The main food staple is Tsampa/a dough made with barley meal and Yak butter with a salty bland taste (to me). It is found in every Tibetan meal,.,, Yak meat, Yak butter, beef mutton, milk and noodles, vegetables, dumplings and teas (salty butter teas or sweet tea) poured from carafes, canteens in every restaurants Lots of tasteful noodles, vegetables and Yak meat! I tried a tiny piece of yak meat, it tastes like beef. Once was enough!
Shopping: of course nothing compared to big box stores and malls in the US. However, my interest was on crafted hand made cal Tibetan people i.e.,(prayer flags, prayer wheels,turquoise/coral jewelry, etc). In most of the regions these items were sold in monasteries by residential monks, on the streets, and Tibetans shops in the city.
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